પટોળા (Patola)
Patan Patola is the third and most technically demanding double-ikat tradition documented in the CRAFT database (alongside Odisha Bandha, CRAFT-0064, and Pochampally Ikat, CRAFT-0084). Produced exclusively in Patan, Gujarat, by the Salvi family — now reduced to a single family of three practicing brothers — Patola involves resist-dyeing both silk warp and silk weft threads in precise patterns before weaving, so the design emerges only when both pre-dyed thread sets align perfectly on the loom. What distinguishes Patola from the other two double-ikat traditions is its use of a vertical loom rather than a horizontal pit loom, and a uniquely complex resist-tying system that allows a color palette of up to twelve colors in a single piece — vastly exceeding the typical two-to-four color range of other double-ikat traditions. The patterns — Navaratna (nine gems), Chhabdi Bhaat (basket), Paan Bhaat (betel leaf) — are traditional and precisely codified. A single six-yard Patola sari requires six months to one year of continuous work by two people. The tradition has survived for over 900 years; it now rests on one family.
Risk level: Critically Endangered · Not inscribed; GI registered (2013)
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