India · Textile Arts / Silk Weaving
भागलपुरी तसर (Bhagalpuri tussar, tasar); thigh reeling; kundi finish
Handloom weaving of tussar (tasar) wild silk in Bhagalpur, Bihar. Cocoons of the tasar silkworm (Antheraea mylitta), reared on asan and arjun trees, are boiled, then reeled into yarn by thigh reeling or on a charkha; the yarn is dyed with natural or chemical dyes and woven on pit looms with fly shuttles, then beaten with a wooden mallet (kundi) and calendered. The cloth is known for a natural golden-brown color, a dry, airy feel and a texture that improves with washing. Registered as a Geographical Indication in 2013.
Risk level: Vulnerable · Not inscribed
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