Japan · Fermentation; Brewing; Koji Culture; Food and Drink Craft

Sake Brewing with Koji Mold (Toji Craft)

Nihonshu no dentō-teki sakezukuri; kōji-zukuri; tōji (chief brewer) and kurabito (brewery workers)

The brewing of nihonshu (sake) from rice, water and koji mold, led by a chief brewer (tōji) who directs a team of brewery workers (kurabito). Koji mold is grown on steamed rice to turn starch into sugar, and the brewer controls temperature and humidity by sight and touch. Sake is made in three-stage 'multiple parallel fermentation' in which saccharification and fermentation occur at once, in a process of about 60 days. The same koji-based skills underlie shochu, awamori and mirin.

Risk level: Vulnerable · Inscribed in 2024 (19.COM) on UNESCO's Representative List: 'Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan' (nomination 01977). Also on Japan's national ICH inventory (December 2021).

Alternate Names
Nihonshu brewing; traditional sake-making with koji mold; related koji-based crafts: shochu, awamori and mirin making
Geographic Center
Throughout Japan; regional brewer guilds historically came from Nanbu (Iwate), Echigo (Niigata), Tajima (Hyōgo) and elsewhere. Large-scale production in Nada (Kobe) and Fushimi (Kyoto).
Community / Ethnic Group
Japanese sake brewers: tōji (chief brewers) and kurabito, regional brewer guilds (tōji-gumi), and the families of breweries (kuramoto). Sake-making was originally done by women; today people of all genders can become tōji.
Estimated Origin
The earliest reference to koji-and-rice sake close to the modern form is from the early 8th century. In the latter half of the 15th century the forerunners of modern methods appeared: dan-jikomi (adding ingredients in stages) and hiire (pasteurization). The skills' original forms are said to be over 500 years old.
Cultural Function
Sake is central to festivals, weddings (the san-san-kudo ritual), rites of passage and offerings to the gods at ground-breaking ceremonies; seen as a sacred gift. The craft also binds brewery teams, local farmers and residents.
Primary Materials
Rice, water, koji mold, yeast.
Primary Tools
Koji room (kōji-muro) and trays or boxes for koji; steaming equipment; fermentation tanks (traditionally wooden vats, now largely enamel or stainless steel); presses; the brewer's hands and senses.
Process Overview
Polish, wash and steam rice; make koji; make the starter (moto) from koji, steamed rice, water and yeast; build the main mash (moromi) in three additions; ferment; press; filter and pasteurize; store and bottle. The Agency for Cultural Affairs gives the full process as about 60 days.
Traditional Applications
Ritual and festival drinking; wedding ceremonies; offerings to the gods; communal celebrations.
Contemporary Applications
Nihonshu in many styles (junmai, ginjō, nama, nigori, sparkling, aged); shochu, awamori and mirin; growing overseas interest.
Notable Practitioners
Organizations rather than individuals: the Japan Toji Guild Association (Nittōren) and the Preservation Society of Japanese Koji-based Sake Making Craftsmanship (vice-president 宇都宮仁, Utsunomiya Hitoshi, quoted in Sankei Shimbun, 2024). Historic regional brewer schools: Nanbu, Echigo, Tajima.
Key References
UNESCO ICH, nomination file 01977 and decision 19.COM 7.B.44 (2024); Agency for Cultural Affairs, 'Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan' (Shin Nihonshu Story 2024); Kobe University RIEB, 'Tradition and Craft Organising: A Review of the Context of Japanese Sake Master Brewer' (DP2024-07); Sankei Shimbun (5 Nov 2024); Gauntner, Sake World.
Verification Status
Desk-Researched — Needs Practitioner Verification

More from Japan

  • Ikkanbari Lacquered Layered-Paper WareLacquerware · Endangered

    Light, strong everyday objects made by layering washi over a base of paper, bamboo or wood and coating them with persimmon tannin (kakishibu) or urushi lacquer.

  • Shifu Paper-Thread Weaving and Kamiko Paper GarmentsPapercraft & Printing · Critically Endangered

    Two textiles made from washi in Shiroishi, Miyagi Prefecture.

  • Mino Ware Shino and Oribe Glazed CeramicsCeramics & Pottery · Stable

    Ceramics from the Tōnō region of eastern Gifu Prefecture, in a collective name for about fifteen traditional types.

  • Nanbu Hishizashi Even-Count Thread EmbroideryEmbroidery & Lace · Vulnerable

    Counted-thread embroidery of the Nanbu region of southeastern Aomori Prefecture, centered on Hachinohe, in which cotton thread is stitched over an even number of warp threads of pale-blue hemp cloth, producing long horizontal diamonds.

  • Tsugaru Kumihimo Plant-Dyed Silk BraidingBasketry & Woven Fiber · Vulnerable

    Braided silk cord made on a braiding stand (kumidai) in the Goshogawara and Kanagi area of western Aomori Prefecture, dyed with apple bark, leaves and flowers and with indigo.

  • Tsugaru-yaki Apple-Ash Glazed PotteryCeramics & Pottery · Vulnerable

    Glazed ceramics made in and around Hirosaki, Aomori Prefecture, from local iron-rich clay, glazed with black tenmoku or with an apple-ash glaze made from burnt apple tree wood, sometimes blended with rice-straw ash in a namako ('sea…

All techniques in Japan →

Related food, drink & botanical elsewhere

  • Westphalian Smoked Ham MakingGermany · Stable

    The making of Westfälischer Schinken (Westphalian ham) — the slow-smoked, long-aged ham from the Westphalia region, Germany's most historically significant ham tradition and one of Europe's oldest documented smoked meat products (first…

  • Pisco del Perú Single-Distillation Grape BrandyPeru · Vulnerable

    Peru's national grape spirit, distilled in a single uninterrupted pass from freshly fermented grape must, with no water added, no barrel aging, and no redistillation — a defining set of restrictions that legally distinguishes true pisco…

  • Cocuy Pecayero Agave DistillationVenezuela · Vulnerable

    A wild-agave spirit distilled from the roasted, fermented heart (cormo) of Agave cocui, a native plant of Venezuela's semi-arid northwest, produced exclusively and artisanally in the Pecaya parish of Sucre municipality, Falcón state.

  • Nabeul Harissa Chili Paste PreparationTunisia · Stable

    The preparation of harissa, Tunisia's national chili paste condiment, by sun-drying Baklouti red peppers, deseeding and grinding them, and seasoning the resulting paste with salt, garlic, and coriander using a pestle and mortar or manual…

  • French Artisanal Baguette BakingFrance · Vulnerable

    The daily hand-shaping and baking of the baguette, France's iconic long, crusty loaf made from only four ingredients — wheat flour, water, salt, and leaven or yeast — through a precise sequence of weighing, mixing, kneading, fermentation,…

  • Djerid Date Palm Hand-PollinationTunisia · Vulnerable

    The manual, entirely hand-performed pollination of date palms in Tunisia's southern oases, centered on the Djerid region (Tozeur, Kebili) and the historic heartland of the prized Deglet Nour variety.

All food, drink & botanical techniques →