Japan · Textile Arts / Braiding

Tsugaru Kumihimo Plant-Dyed Silk Braiding

津軽組ひも (Tsugaru kumihimo); kumi = to braid, himo = cord

Braided silk cord made on a braiding stand (kumidai) in the Goshogawara and Kanagi area of western Aomori Prefecture, dyed with apple bark, leaves and flowers and with indigo. Aomori Prefecture says its braiding methods were adapted from local straw-craft braids, which ranged from simple three-strand plaits to the advanced sazanami braid. Obijime sash cords are the classic product; brooches, necklaces and ceremonial knots are also made. Aomori Prefecture designated it a traditional craft in August 2009, later than the 1996 group.

Risk level: Vulnerable (one main studio and its pupils; successor depends on a few people) · Not inscribed

Alternate Names
Tsugaru braiding; Tsugaru kumihimo
Geographic Center
Goshogawara (Kanagi district), Tsugaru, Aomori Prefecture, Tohoku
Community / Ethnic Group
Tsugaru braiders; a small number of workshops
Estimated Origin
Aomori Prefecture traces braiding in the region to Jomon-period cordage and, more directly, to Tsugaru straw-craft braiding near Goshogawara, adapted into silk kumihimo with local plant dyes in recent times. The workshop's history is not otherwise documented in the sources found.
Cultural Function
Obijime sash cords for kimono; local gifts and souvenirs; collar accents on the uniforms of the JR East luxury sleeper train Shiki-shima crew (2017)
Primary Materials
Silk thread
Primary Tools
Braiding stands (kumidai); one practitioner favors the high stand (takadai) for complex structures; bobbins
Process Overview
Per Aomori Prefecture: divide the thread → dye → reel → measure → attach bobbins → braid → finish.
Traditional Applications
Obijime (sash cords), haori cords, ceremonial knots
Contemporary Applications
Obijime, brooches, necklaces, straps and accessories; collab strap with Shitakawara pigeon whistle; train-crew uniform collar trim
Notable Practitioners
Kawaguchi Yoshiko (Aomori Prefecture-certified traditional craftsperson, Kanagi, founder of the studio); Sato Rumiko (lead of the Tsugaru Kumihimo Studio; works on the high stand with apple-dyed thread)
Key References
Aomori Prefecture, 'Tsugaru Kumihimo', https://www.pref.aomori.lg.jp/soshiki/sangyo/chikikigyo/aomori_dento-kogei_tsugarukumihimo.html ; Aomori Prefecture, release on 'Aomori Prefecture Traditional Craftspersons' (2021), https://www.pref.aomori.lg.jp/release/files/2021/69465.pdf ; Mutsu Shimpo, 'JR East Shiki-shima crew try Tsugaru kumihimo', 23 Feb 2017, https://mutsushimpo.com/news/55xtsd1x/ ; Naoko Kimura, 'Conveying the wonders of Aomori's traditional crafts' (note.com, 2020) ; Digital Daijisen Plus entry 'Tsugaru kumihimo', via Kotobank
Verification Status
Desk-Researched

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