Japan · Textile / Weaving / Supplementary Float-Weave and Gauze
南風原花織 (Haebaru Hanaori)
Haebaru hanaori (南風原花織) is the figured weaving of Haebaru Town, Okinawa's largest weaving center, woven there since the Meiji era alongside the town's Ryukyu kasuri. It is unusually varied. The 2017 national designation groups it into four families, which subdivide into nine types. The first is ryōmen-uki hanaori, a double-sided float-weave, including tacchirī, jūji hanaori, kyan hachimai ('Kyan eight-heddle'), kyan rokumai, Haebaru rōton and ro gauze; its pattern is raised with a pattern heddle, and gauze is added with a ro heddle. The second is kwankwan hanaori, a supplementary pattern weft separate from the ground, which leaves loose floats on the reverse. The third is chippugasā, where the weaver picks up ground warps with a bamboo spatula or the fingers and inserts pattern threads. The fourth is Haebaru twill (shamon-ori). Kasuri can be combined with any of them, bound by pattern-chart, cored, hand-tied or hand-printed methods. Yarns may be silk, cotton, linen or wool; Hanaori was handed down from mother to daughter in Haebaru from the Meiji era. After a village girls' supplementary school opened in April 1914, Haebaru's own float-weaves took shape, such as Kyan yaori and Teruya hanaori. A local song holds that only a woman who can untangle any tangled thread can weave the yashirami flower
Risk level: Stable · Not inscribed. METI Traditional Craft Product (26 January 2017) — Okinawa's 15th designation
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