Japan · Textile / Natural Dyeing and Weaving

Ūji Zome Sugarcane-Leaf Dyeing (Tomigusuku)

ウージ染め (Ūji Zome)

Ūji Zome (ウージ染め) is dyeing and weaving with sugarcane (ūji in Okinawan), developed in Tomigusuku as a village-revitalization project of the local Chamber of Commerce in 1989. It is a modern craft, not an old one, and was recognized as such: it won the national Chamber of Commerce President's award at a nationwide village-revitalization exhibition in 1990. The dye is boiled from sugarcane leaves and flower ears. It gives greens from young-leaf to moegi and yellows up to gold, and the hue shifts with steeping time and season: summer's lush leaves dye a stronger yellow, winter's a more astringent tone. The cooperative uniquely combines saki-zome (dyeing yarn, then weaving) with ato-zome (dyeing finished cloth, including shibori and paste-resist brushwork). A processing plant opened in 1991 with 13 trainees, the name was trademarked in 1993, and the cooperative was incorporated on 6 September 1994 with 12 members (5 yarn-dyers, 7 piece-dyers). In 2005 it developed kaho-zome, a pale pink from the sugarcane flower ear, trademarked in 2008. In 2007 its dyeing method won the Minister of Education's Creative Ingenuity Award.

Risk level: Stable · Not inscribed. Not a METI or prefectural traditional craft; 'Ūji-zome' (1993) and 'kaho-zome' (2008) are registered trademarks

Alternate Names
Uji-zome; ūji (sugarcane, Okinawan); kaho-zome (花穂染め, sugarcane-flower-ear dyeing); saki-zome (yarn-dyed weaving); ato-zome (piece-dyed)
Geographic Center
Tomigusuku City, Okinawa Prefecture (cooperative shop at Tomigusuku City Tourist Plaza Tigumakan, Toyosaki)
Community / Ethnic Group
Okinawan; Tomigusuku dyers and weavers
Estimated Origin
1989 (Tomigusuku Village Chamber of Commerce village-revitalization project)
Cultural Function
Local specialty product and craft-based regional development
Primary Materials
Sugarcane leaves and flower ears (dye); cloth and yarn
Primary Tools
Dye pots; looms (for saki-zome weaving); brushes (for paste-resist ato-zome)
Process Overview
Cut leaves -> boil leaves and ears for dye liquor -> saki-zome: dye yarn, weave | ato-zome: dye cloth (shibori, paste-resist brushwork)
Traditional Applications
Not applicable — a modern craft (1989)
Contemporary Applications
Neckties, bags, noren, table runners, shawls, coasters, pochettes
Notable Practitioners
Cooperative representative: 髙江 (given name reading unconfirmed; 'Akiko' in machine extraction). No individual originator independently verified
Key References
Okinawa Kōgei no Mori, 'Tomigusuku-shi Ūji-zome Kyōdō Kumiai' (chronology); Tomigusuku City Ūji Zome Cooperative, 'Ūji-zome to wa' (u-jizome.jp); Tomigusuku City Chamber of Commerce, 'Ūji-zome'; Ryukyu Shimpo, Okinawa encyclopedia, 'ウージ染め'; Tomigusuku City Chamber of Commerce, 'ウージ染め' (process photos); Tomigusuku City Ūji Zome Cooperative, 'ウージ染めとは'
Verification Status
Verified — the 'housewife's proposal' origin claim remains unverified and is omitted

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