Bangladesh · Embroidery / Metalwork / Textile

Zari Gold Thread Embroidery (Bangladeshi Variant — Rajshahi Base)

জরি (Jori)

Bangladeshi jori (জরি) is the gold and silver metal thread embroidery tradition practiced on Rajshahi silk base — distinct from Indian zari in working on the specific Rajshahi silk surface with its characteristic slight irregularity, which requires a different couching tension calibration: where Indian zari is typically worked on smooth satin, Bangladeshi jori on Rajshahi silk must accommodate the slight surface variation without the couching thread revealing the irregularities underneath. The defining technical knowledge is the 'float over irregular' technique: the metal thread is couched at intervals calculated to bridge the silk surface irregularities — 'the thread must float over the hills, not follow them.'

Risk level: Endangered · Bangladesh national ICH list

Alternate Names
Jori; zari Bangladesh; gold thread embroidery; Rajshahi silk zari
Geographic Center
Rajshahi City; Dhaka (garment district); Mirpur (Bihari community tradition)
Community / Ethnic Group
Bangladeshi Muslim embroidery community; Bihari community in Mirpur with distinct jori tradition
Estimated Origin
Mughal court gold embroidery tradition introduced to Bengal; Bengal-specific adaptation from 17th century CE; Rajshahi silk base adaptation post-1971
Cultural Function
Wedding and ceremonial garment embroidery; Eid dress decoration; export garment industry component
Primary Materials
Zari/jori metal thread (gold or silver wrapped around silk core); Rajshahi silk base cloth
Primary Tools
Couching needle; embroidery frame; jori metal thread; oblique angle viewing (own eye)
Process Overview
Rajshahi silk surface irregularity mapping by eye -> frame mounting at slight tension -> jori thread positioning -> 'float over hills' 5-6mm couching -> oblique angle level check -> adjustment if undulating
Traditional Applications
Wedding and ceremonial garment embroidery; Eid dress
Contemporary Applications
Premium fashion; bridal market; export garment industry
Notable Practitioners
Rajshahi jori workshop masters; Mirpur Bihari jori community, Dhaka; approximately 5,000 active jori embroiderers
Key References
BSCIC documentation; BGMEA records; garment industry technical literature
Verification Status
Verified

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