Afghanistan · Leatherwork / Garment Making / Embroidery

Postin Sheepskin Coat Making (Kandahar — Embroidered Leather Coat)

پوستین (Postin)

The postin (پوستین) is the embroidered sheepskin coat of the Pashtun people — the most prestigious winter garment of southern and eastern Afghanistan. Worn with the fleece inside for warmth and the tanned leather outside embroidered with floral and geometric patterns, a fine postin is both a survival garment and a status object. The defining technical knowledge is the pelt preparation for embroidery: the leather outer surface must be tanned, dried, and scraped to a specific smoothness that accepts embroidery needle without the needle slipping — 'the leather must grip the needle as fabric grips thread — if the needle slides, the stitch will not hold.'

Risk level: Critically Endangered · Afghanistan national ICH list

Alternate Names
Postin; Afghan sheepskin coat; Kandahar coat; embroidered pelt
Geographic Center
Kandahar Province (primary postin tradition); Ghazni; Zabul — southern Afghanistan Pashtun belt
Community / Ethnic Group
Pashtun communities of southern Afghanistan — both men (leather preparation) and women (embroidery) contribute
Estimated Origin
Ancient Pashtun sheepskin garment tradition; postin documented from earliest European accounts of Afghanistan (18th century CE); pre-Islamic origin
Cultural Function
Primary winter survival garment for mountain and steppe; prestige object — quality reflects family status; wedding gift — postin given to groom's family; Pashtun cultural identity
Primary Materials
Afghan fat-tailed sheep pelt (with fleece intact — fleece inside when worn); vegetable-tanned leather surface; silk or wool embroidery thread
Primary Tools
Bone scraping tool; heavy gauge embroidery needle (grip test and embroidery); vegetable tanning vessel
Process Overview
Pelt tanning -> outer leather surface scraping -> needle grip test -> pattern transfer -> heavy-gauge embroidery on prepared leather surface
Traditional Applications
Primary winter survival garment; wedding gift; prestige object
Contemporary Applications
Cultural identity; luxury fashion; museum acquisition; diplomatic gift
Notable Practitioners
Kandahar postin makers — combined leather and embroidery families; Turquoise Mountain Foundation documented; approximately 200 active full-tradition postin makers
Key References
Turquoise Mountain Foundation documentation; UNHCR craft programs Afghanistan records; Afghan culture and material heritage literature
Verification Status
Verified — diaspora and Turquoise Mountain sources

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