Sierra Leone · Textile / Basketry

Mende Kpokpo Tripod-Loom Country Cloth Weaving

Kpokpo (also kondi gula, "country cloth"); kpoikpoi (a related, larger prestige-hanging form); kula njawi (a documented kpokpo subgroup with supplementary weft-float patterning)

The hand-spinning, dyeing, and narrow-strip weaving of thick, heavy cotton cloth by Mende (and related Vai and Gola) weavers of Sierra Leone and neighboring Liberia, using a tripod loom found almost exclusively in this region of West Africa. Women traditionally card and spin locally grown cotton into yarn on drop spindles; men then weave the yarn on the distinctive tripod loom, in which the treadle, heddles, and beater are suspended from a tripod of poles while the warp is fixed to a ground stake, allowing the weaver to physically move down the length of a long warp — stretched 9 to 12 meters — as weaving progresses, rather than the warp moving through a fixed apparatus as in conventional looms. Narrow four-inch strips are woven and sewn edge to edge into the finished kpokpo cloth, prized for its weight, durability, and use in gbari robes, wrapper sets, chief's hammocks, and elaborate kpoikpoi prestige wall hangings — one thirteen-foot Metropolitan Museum of Art example is directly compared in scholarship to Ghana's kente cloth and the Fulani weavings of the Niger Bend as among the most technically sophisticated achievements of West African master weaving. The craft was severely disrupted by Sierra Leone's civil war, with tripod-loom weaving documented as only beginning to resume in its aftermath.

Risk level: Critically Endangered · Not independently inscribed

Alternate Names
Country cloth
Geographic Center
Southern and eastern Mende territory, notably documented in the town of Bo, with the tripod-loom technology shared with neighboring Liberia
Community / Ethnic Group
Mende people, with the related, highly specialized prestige-hanging (kpoikpoi) form also attributed to Vai and Gola weavers
Estimated Origin
Not specifically dated in available sources; documented as the traditional handloom cloth of the Mende and Gola peoples across a region now spanning Liberia, Sierra Leone, Côte d'Ivoire, Burkina Faso, Guinea, and Mali, historically the dominant clothing textile until displaced in the market by Dutch wax print cloth due to its greater mass-produced affordability
Cultural Function
A thick, heavy, ornate cloth regarded as a sign of wealth and prestige, historically commissioned by chiefs and used for hammocks (litters used for conveyance before roads were built, carried by four men), bedspreads, and, in its most elaborate and weighty forms, wall hangings specifically commissioned for auspicious and important occasions; the almost-square kula njawi subgroup of kpokpo is specifically documented as intended for use as ceremonial backdrops at chieftaincy events or Sande/Bundu society 'graduation' performances (see CRAFT-2492), directly connecting this weaving tradition to the mask tradition's own ceremonial calendar; the cloth also appears in gbari robes for men and wrapper sets for women during initiations and chieftaincy events
Primary Materials
Locally grown cotton, hand-spun into yarn
Primary Tools
The tripod loom, a distinctive, portable weaving apparatus in which the treadle, heddles, and beater are suspended from a tripod of poles while the warp is fixed to a ground stake — a technology documented as unique to Sierra Leone and Liberia within the broader West African stripweaving tradition
Process Overview
Card and spin locally grown cotton into yarn on a drop spindle, dye the spun yarn, set up the region's distinctive tripod loom with a long warp staked to the ground, and weave narrow (roughly four-inch) strips by hand while seated on a small bench, physically relocating along the warp's 9-12 meter length as work progresses — for elaborate kpoikpoi prestige hangings, precisely calculating alternating geometric pattern-block proportions in advance so cut sections reunite into a balanced composition — and sew completed strips edge to edge into the finished kpokpo cloth, a heavy, prestige textile historically commissioned by Mende chiefs for hammocks, ceremonial hangings, robes, and wrapper sets, severely disrupted by Sierra Leone's civil war and only gradually recovering in its aftermath.
Traditional Applications
Chief's hammocks and litters; ceremonial wall hangings for chieftaincy and Sande/Bundu society events; gbari robes and wrapper sets for initiations
Contemporary Applications
Gradual post-civil-war revival of tripod-loom weaving practice; continued production for ceremonial and prestige use; historic examples held in major international museum collections
Notable Practitioners
No individually named contemporary master weaver documented in available sources at the level of specificity required, though a Mende master weaver was directly observed and documented at his tripod loom in Bo
Key References
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 'Mende or Vai artist - Kpoikpoi (prestige hanging)' (detailed object scholarship, direct kente/Fulani comparison); Leila Atelier, 'KPOKPO – SIERRA LEONE' (detailed tripod-loom mechanical description); Art Quill Studio, 'Stripweaves (West Africa) - Part II' (Marie-Therese Wisniowski, field observation of Mende weaving in Bo, noting civil-war disruption and recovery); Sierra Leone Heritage, 'Kpokpo Cloth' and 'Country Cloth' object records; Adire African Textiles, 'Cloth of the month: A Mende display cloth' (citing Lamb & Lamb 1984, naming the kula njawi subgroup)
Verification Status
Desk-Researched

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