Japan · Textile / Weaving / Bast and Leaf Fiber

Kijoka Bashōfu Banana-Fiber Weaving

喜如嘉の芭蕉布 (Kijoka no Bashōfu)

Bashōfu (芭蕉布) is cloth woven from the fiber of the ito-bashō, a fiber banana (Musa liukiuensis). Thin, light and crisp, it does not cling to sweating skin, and it clothed Ryukyu in its heat. Under the kingdom the royal household kept large bashō plantations, and the cloth appeared in 15th-century tribute to Ming China and in Satsuma's levies. Until the Meiji era, commoner households grew bashō in their own gardens and wove for themselves. The US occupation burned many plants as mosquito-breeding sites during anti-malaria campaigns, and after the war the craft survived mainly in Kijoka, a hamlet of Ōgimi Village, where Taira Toshiko led its revival. In the makers' own words, weaving is only 1% of the work. The official 23-step process starts with growing the plant, and one bolt takes about 200 plants and two months.

Risk level: Critically Endangered · Not inscribed. National Important Intangible Cultural Property 'Kijoka no Bashōfu' (group designation, Kijoka Bashōfu Preservation Society, 1974); individual holder for 'Bashōfu': Taira Toshiko (2000–2022). METI Traditional Craft Product

Alternate Names
Bashōfu; bashā; bashō-fu; banana-fiber cloth; ito-bashō cloth; ūbatake; ūhagi; ūumi
Geographic Center
Kijoka, Ōgimi Village, Kunigami District, northern Okinawa Island, Okinawa Prefecture
Community / Ethnic Group
Okinawan (Ryukyuan); Kijoka village weavers
Estimated Origin
Ryukyu Kingdom — attested as 15th-century tribute cloth to Ming China; household production widespread until the Meiji era; post-war revival at Kijoka from 1946
Cultural Function
Everyday and summer clothing across classes; royal tribute and Satsuma levy cloth; mosquito nets and cushions
Primary Materials
Ito-bashō fiber (ū) from cultivated plants about three years old
Primary Tools
Ēbi (bamboo scraping tongs); small knife for splitting fiber; high-warp loom (takabata)
Process Overview
23 steps (official Kijoka process): cultivation -> ūhagi (peel and grade) -> ūdaki (lye boiling) -> washing -> ūbiki (scraping) -> drying -> chingu-maki -> ūumi (splicing) -> weft hand-winding -> twisting -> warping -> nīgashi (skein boiling) -> kasuri alignment -> kasuri tying -> dyeing -> kasuri untying -> reeling -> temporary reed threading -> beaming -> heddle threading -> reed threading -> weaving -> 'sentaku' finishing (about 12 sub-steps)
Traditional Applications
Summer kimono and everyday clothing; mosquito nets; cushions
Contemporary Applications
Luxury summer kimono and obi; tablecloths and bags from wāha-grade fiber
Notable Practitioners
Taira Toshiko (平良敏子, 1921–2022) — during the war served in the women's volunteer labor corps in Okayama; in 1946 studied weaving in Kurashiki under the Mingei dyer-weaver Tonomura Kichinosuke; returned to Okinawa that year to revive bashōfu at Kijoka; opened the Bashōfu Weaving Workshop 1963; Living National Treasure 2000; died September 2022 aged 101. Taira Mieko — her daughter-in-law and successor; head of the Kijoka Bashōfu Preservation Society
Key References
Kijoka Bashōfu Preservation Society, 'Bashōfu o umu' (23-step process, bashofu.jp); Japanese Wikipedia, '芭蕉布' (citing Nikkei 2018, OIST 2025, Ōgimi Village); Okinawa Times and Ryukyu Shimpo obituaries of Taira Toshiko (September 2022); FM Fukuoka, 'Takumi no Kura' (Taira Mieko); Okinawa Prefecture designated-properties register (2019)
Verification Status
Verified

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