India · Textiles

Eri Silk Weaving

এৰি সিল্ক (Eri Silk) / Endi Silk

Eri silk is a fully domesticated silk produced from the silkworm Samia ricini, which feeds on castor (Ricinus communis) and kesseru (Heteropanax fragrans) leaves and is reared in open containers in domestic settings across Assam, Meghalaya, and Nagaland. Unlike mulberry silk, Eri cocoons are open-ended and the pupa can exit naturally — the silk is spun from broken cocoons (staple spinning, not filament reeling), making it the only naturally vegan silk in commercial production. The resulting fabric is warm, cotton-like in drape, and breathable — used for winter shawls, blankets, and traditional garments across Northeast India. The spinning technique — using a traditional hand spindle or charkha — is distinct from all other silk traditions globally.

Risk level: Endangered · Not inscribed; GI tag application in progress

Alternate Names
Peace Silk; Ahimsa Silk; Endi; Errandi
Geographic Center
Assam (Kamrup, Sivasagar districts); Meghalaya (East Khasi Hills); Nagaland (Dimapur environs)
Community / Ethnic Group
Assamese rural communities; Khasi (Meghalaya); Garo (Meghalaya); Bodo (Assam); Koch-Rajbongshi
Estimated Origin
2,000+ years — references in Assamese texts from 4th century CE
Cultural Function
Winter garment tradition; blankets (mekhela style); domestic warmth textile; increasingly ethical fashion statement in contemporary market
Primary Materials
Eri silk fiber (from broken Samia ricini cocoons); castor leaves for silkworm feed
Primary Tools
Drop spindle (takli); charkha (spinning wheel); handloom or loin-loom for weaving
Process Overview
Silkworm rearing → cocoon collection → fiber preparation (soaking, teasing) → spinning → dyeing → weaving → finishing
Traditional Applications
Winter shawls; mekhela chador; blankets; protective garments for outdoor work
Contemporary Applications
Ethical fashion; sustainable luxury; Peace Silk certification products; international export to European ethical fashion market
Notable Practitioners
Pragjyoti Saikia (Assam — Eri revival leader, National Award 2017); Meherunissa Khanam (Meghalaya — Eri-Khasi textile fusion); Weave India and various NGOs active in Eri promotion.
Key References
Thangavelu, K. & Bhaskaran, P. (2012). Eri Silkworm and Eri Silk Production. Central Silk Board. Kalita, M.K. (2015). 'Eri Silk Industry in Assam: Problems and Prospects.' Indian Journal of Sericulture 54(1): 12–18. Nimkar, S. (2020). Peace Silk: Ethics and the Global Luxury Market. WGSN Research Report.
Verification Status
Desk-Researched — field verification at Assam and Meghalaya weaving centers recommended

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