China · Textile / Felting

Mongolian Felt Making (Esgii)

擀毡 (Gǎn Zhān) — Chinese; Эсгий (Esgii) — Mongolian

Mongolian felt making (擀毡 gǎn zhān) is the nomadic textile tradition of the Mongolian people of Inner Mongolia — producing thick, durable, insulating felt from raw wool through a process of carding, layering, rolling, and wetting that causes the wool fibers to permanently interlock without weaving or spinning. The felt is the foundational material of Mongolian nomadic life: ger (yurt) wall panels, floor coverings, saddle pads, and winter clothing are all felt-based. The procedural knowledge centers on reading wool quality, controlling water temperature and rolling pressure to achieve the target density, and creating decorative appliqué patterns using colored wool inlay during the layering stage. In Inner Mongolia, sedentarization policy has dramatically reduced active practitioners.

Risk level: Endangered · Mongolian traditional craftsmanship of Mongol Ger inscribed UNESCO Representative List (2013) — felt making component; China National ICH List separately

Alternate Names
Gan zhan; rolled felt; nomadic felt; Inner Mongolia felt
Geographic Center
Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region — Hulunbuir, Xilingol, Ordos
Community / Ethnic Group
Mongolian ethnic minority (蒙古族 Měnggǔzú)
Estimated Origin
Pre-historic; documented nomadic use over 2,000 years; formalized in Mongolian Empire period (13th century CE)
Cultural Function
Structural material for ger (yurt) construction; floor insulation on steppe; saddlery and horse equipment; winter clothing; ritual gift object at weddings and celebrations
Primary Materials
Raw sheep or camel wool (unwashed preferred for natural lanolin content)
Primary Tools
Reed mat (芦苇席 lúwěi xí) as rolling base; rope for binding; bow-string carding tool (弹弓 dán gōng)
Process Overview
Wool washing and drying → carding → layering on reed mat → decorative colored wool inlay placement → hot water application → rolling and pressing → rope-binding of rolled mat → further rolling → unwrapping and re-rolling in perpendicular direction → finishing compression → drying flat
Traditional Applications
Ger wall panels and floor coverings; saddlery; winter garments; storage bags
Contemporary Applications
Contemporary felt art and fashion; eco-textile market; interior design material
Notable Practitioners
Bayartsetseg — Xilingol League, recognized Inner Mongolia ICH inheritor; Mongolian Women's Felt Cooperative, Hulunbuir
Key References
Gillow, J. & Sentence, B. (1999). World Textiles. Thames & Hudson; Hyer, P. (1981). 'The Mongolian Felt Tent' in Central Asiatic Journal; UNESCO ICH nomination file — Mongolian Ger (2013)
Verification Status
Verified

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