Japan · Textile / Weaving / Float-Weave, Plain and Ikat

Yonaguni-ori Textiles (Hanaori, Dutāchi, Shidadi, Kagannubū)

与那国織 (Yonaguni-ori)

Yonaguni-ori (与那国織) is the collective name for four textiles of Yonaguni, Japan's westernmost island, from which Taiwan is visible on clear days. The four are: Yonaguni hanaori, a pattern-heddle float-weave that sets small red and yellow 'flowers' into a black-and-white check; dutāchi, a plain-weave ramie-and-cotton check (the gōban gingham among them), the island's own work and festival garment, more than 90% of which is worn locally; shidadi, a white cotton hand-towel with seven colors of float pattern, given as a charm for safe journeys and still tied as a headband on the dead; and kagannubū, a narrow cotton ikat sash, the island's minsā. The flowers are counted in dots: dachinbana (8), ichichinbana (5), duchinbana (4). By one weaver's account, red and yellow 'came from travel': an islander brought back a sash from Taiwan and it was unraveled for its thread. A Korean castaway's 1477 account attests weaving on the island, and cloth went as tribute to the Ryukyu court by the early 16th century. After the war, with yarn unobtainable, islanders unraveled fishing nets to weave.

Risk level: Vulnerable · Not inscribed. METI Traditional Craft Product (18 April 1987). Okinawa Prefecture traditional craft: dutāchi and shidadi (1974), hanaori and kagannubū (1998)

Alternate Names
Yonaguni hanaori; dutāchi; gōban-dutāchi; shidadi; kagannubū; dachinbana; ichichinbana; duchinbana
Geographic Center
Yonaguni Town, Yaeyama District, Okinawa Prefecture
Community / Ethnic Group
Yonagunian (Ryukyuan); island women weavers
Estimated Origin
Weaving attested by 1477 (Korean castaway record); tribute cloth by the early 16th century
Cultural Function
Dutāchi as everyday and harvest-festival wear (sixth lunar month); shidadi as travel charm and funerary headband; hanaori as fine kimono cloth
Primary Materials
Silk (hanaori), cotton and ramie (dutāchi, shidadi, kagannubū); banana fiber also permitted
Primary Tools
High-warp loom with hana-sōkō pattern heddles (hanaori); hand-thrown or board shuttle
Process Overview
Scouring -> dyeing -> winding -> warping -> starching -> stripe division -> temporary reed -> beaming -> heddle threading -> (pattern-heddle threading) -> reed threading -> weaving -> washing -> inspection
Traditional Applications
Dutāchi garments (calf-length, straight-sleeved, unisex, two from one bolt); shidadi hand-cloths; kagannubū sashes; hanaori cloth
Contemporary Applications
Kimono cloth, obi, decorative cloth; baby-size dutāchi for islanders' grandchildren away
Notable Practitioners
Sakimoto (崎元; given name unconfirmed, b. 1967) — trained two years at the prefectural crafts guidance center and three years in Ryukyu kasuri in Haebaru before returning to lead Yonaguni's weavers; granddaughter of the woman who revived the island's declining weaving (name not confirmed in Japanese). Readings come from a machine-translated interview; confirm before publication in other media
Key References
Association for the Promotion of Traditional Craft Industries, Aoyama Square, 'YONAGUNI Ori (Textiles)' (kougeihin.jp/craft/0132); Okinawa Kōgei no Mori, 'Yonaguni-ori' (origin/4883); Ginza Motoji, 'Yonaguni hanaori'
Verification Status
Verified — designations and technique taxonomy; practitioner names partly unconfirmed

More from Japan

  • Shifu Paper-Thread Weaving and Kamiko Paper GarmentsPapercraft & Printing · Critically Endangered

    Two textiles made from washi in Shiroishi, Miyagi Prefecture.

  • Ikkanbari Lacquered Layered-Paper WareLacquerware · Endangered

    Light, strong everyday objects made by layering washi over a base of paper, bamboo or wood and coating them with persimmon tannin (kakishibu) or urushi lacquer.

  • Echizen Ware (Echizen-yaki)Ceramics & Pottery · Endangered

    Echizen ware is produced around Echizen-chō in Fukui Prefecture, on Japan's west coast, with pottery activity tracing back roughly 1,300 years and its identity as a distinct production area emerging about 850 years ago in the late Heian…

  • Seto Ware (Seto-yaki)Ceramics & Pottery · Endangered

    Seto, in Aichi Prefecture near Nagoya, is one of Japan's Six Ancient Kilns and the only one of the six with a deep historical tradition of glazing — ash-glazed ware was revived here in the early Kamakura period (late 12th century), and…

  • Shigaraki Ware (Shigaraki-yaki)Ceramics & Pottery · Endangered

    Shigaraki ware, produced in the Shigaraki area of Shiga Prefecture, traces its origins to the 8th century Nara period, when local kilns produced roof tiles for the Shigaraki Palace; its present style was established roughly 600 years ago…

  • Tokoname Ware (Tokoname-yaki)Ceramics & Pottery · Endangered

    Tokoname is the oldest and largest of Japan's 'Six Ancient Kilns,' a pottery tradition on the Chita Peninsula, Aichi Prefecture, dating to the late Heian period (c.

All techniques in Japan →

Related weaving & textiles elsewhere

  • Sumi Naga Süvepfü Shawl WeavingIndia · Endangered

    The Süvepfü is the warrior's prestige shawl of the Sumi Naga people of Zunheboto district, Nagaland.

  • Aceh Songket WeavingIndonesia · Endangered

    Acehnese Songket is the supplementary weft gold thread weaving tradition of the Acehnese people — producing silk or cotton cloth with raised gold and silver thread patterns in a visual vocabulary reflecting Aceh's position as Indonesia's…

  • Calabrian Silk and Velvet WeavingItaly · Critically Endangered

    A silk weaving tradition in Calabria — historically among Italy's primary silk-producing regions — producing plain silks, damasks, and velvets on hand looms, sustained by mulberry cultivation along the Ionian coast, and now a critically…

  • Masatepe Wooden Rocking Chair MakingNicaragua · Stable

    The hand-crafting of Nicaragua's iconic rocking chair — a wooden frame, traditionally in hardwoods such as mahogany, cedar, or teak, joined and shaped by hand, then fitted with a hand-woven cord or rope seat and back — centered on the town…

  • Batak Ulos WeavingIndonesia · Endangered

    Ulos is the sacred handwoven cloth of the Batak people of North Sumatra — comprising six distinct sub-groups (Toba, Karo, Simalungun, Pakpak/Dairi, Angkola, and Mandailing), each with their own distinct Ulos traditions.

  • Savonnerie Carpet WeavingFrance · Stable

    Cut-pile knotted carpet woven on a vertical high-warp loom using the Ghiordes (Turkish) knot, following a painted cartoon.

All weaving & textiles techniques →