Japan · Textile / Weaving / Supplementary Float-Weave and Ikat

Yomitanzan Hanaori Float-Weave (Yomitan Flower Weave)

読谷山花織 (Yuntanza Hanaui)

Yomitanzan hanaori (読谷山花織) is the float-weave of Yomitan Village on central Okinawa Island: on a plain-weave ground, typically dark indigo or white, colored threads — white, yellow, red, green — are floated to form small geometric 'flowers' built from three base units, the jinbana (coin, for prosperity), ōjibana (fan, for flourishing descendants) and kajimayā (pinwheel, for longevity, after the pinwheel given at age 97), recombined into some thirty patterns and often set with kasuri. The techniques are traced to Ryukyu's 14th–15th-century trade with Southeast Asia through Yomitan's Nagahama port. Once a royal-commissioned cloth that commoners outside Yomitan were not permitted to wear, it declined from the mid-Meiji period, lost its weavers and surviving cloths in the war, and was so thoroughly forgotten that in 1964 — when the village mayor asked Yonamine Sada to revive it — she had never heard its name. Working from elders' memories and a few surviving festival garments, she reconstructed it; she became a Living National Treasure in 1999.

Risk level: Vulnerable · Not inscribed. National Important Intangible Cultural Property 'Yomitanzan Hanaori' — Yonamine Sada (holder 1999–2003); Okinawa Prefecture intangible cultural property (1975); METI Traditional Craft Product (1976), with Yomitanzan minsā

Alternate Names
Yuntanza hanaui; Yomitan hanaori; Yomitanzan minsā (gūshi hanaori); jinbana; ōjibana; kajimayā-bana; tīsāji; umui nu tīsāji
Geographic Center
Yomitan Village (Zakimi and Nagahama areas), Nakagami District, Okinawa Prefecture
Community / Ethnic Group
Okinawan (Ryukyuan); Yomitan village weavers
Estimated Origin
Techniques introduced c. 14th–15th century via trade with Southeast Asia; declined from mid-Meiji; revived 1964
Cultural Function
Royal-commissioned cloth (goyōfu) and festival dress; tīsāji hand-cloths woven as tokens of love or prayers for a departing relative's safety
Primary Materials
Cotton (historically the main ground) and silk yarn
Primary Tools
High-warp loom (takabata); hana-sōkō pattern heddles
Process Overview
Design -> kasuri tying -> dye preparation -> dyeing -> warping -> hana-sōkō setup -> weaving (as filmed in the Agency for Cultural Affairs' record of Yonamine Sada's technique)
Traditional Applications
Garment cloth; festival dress; tīsāji hand-cloths
Contemporary Applications
Kimono cloth, obi (including Nagoya obi in tī-hanaori), minsā belts, small goods, weaving workshops for visitors
Notable Practitioners
Yonamine Sada (與那嶺貞, 1909–2003) — trained in dyeing and weaving at Shuri Girls' Vocational School; led the 1964 revival; Okinawa Prefecture holder 1975; Pola Traditional Culture Award special prize 1995; Living National Treasure 21 June 1999
Key References
Tokyo National Research Institute for Cultural Properties, 'Yonamine Sada' (Nihon Bijutsu Nenkan 2004, p. 296); Okinawa Kōgei no Mori, 'Yomitanzan Hanaori Jigyō Kyōdō Kumiai'; Yomitanzan Hanaori Business Cooperative, 'Yomitanzan hanaori ni tsuite'; Bunka Isan Online film record; Okinawa Prefecture designated-properties register (2019)
Verification Status
Verified

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