Bangladesh · Weaving / Silk Textile

Rajshahi Silk Weaving

রাজশাহী রেশম (Rajshahi Resham)

Rajshahi silk (রাজশাহী রেশম) is Bangladesh's indigenous mulberry silk tradition — centered on Rajshahi Division in northwestern Bangladesh, where the specific microclimate and the local Morus multicaulis mulberry variety produce a silk with distinct luster characteristics. Rajshahi silk is known as 'garod' in its raw untwisted form — the defining commercial product is the rajshahi silk sari with its characteristic heavy sheen and slightly irregular surface that distinguishes it from smoother Indian silks. The defining technical knowledge is the reeling tension calibration: silk reeled at too high a tension loses the natural gum (sericin) in an uncontrolled pattern, producing an irregular surface; reeled at correct tension, the sericin remains intact and produces rajshahi's signature controlled sheen. The tension is assessed by the squeak: 'correct rajshahi silk squeaks when pressed between clean fingers.'

Risk level: Endangered · Bangladesh national ICH list; GI protection for Rajshahi Silk

Alternate Names
Rajshahi silk; Garod silk; Rajshahi resham; Bangladesh silk
Geographic Center
Rajshahi City; Chapai Nawabganj; Natore — northwestern Bangladesh
Community / Ethnic Group
Bangladeshi silk weaving community — Rajshahi tradition; both Hindu and Muslim weaving families
Estimated Origin
Silk production in Bengal documented from at least 7th century CE; Rajshahi as distinct center from Mughal period; British colonial period systematically disrupted but did not destroy
Cultural Function
Prestige sari and fabric; Eid and wedding ceremonial dress; GI-protected Bangladeshi product; women's economic empowerment vehicle
Primary Materials
Bombyx mori silkworm cocoons from Rajshahi area mulberry cultivation; Morus multicaulis mulberry leaves
Primary Tools
Reeling charkha; hot water basin; thumb and index finger (squeak test); handloom for weaving
Process Overview
Mulberry cultivation and silkworm rearing -> cocoon harvesting -> hot water softening (wrist temperature test) -> thread finding by brush -> reeling at calibrated tension -> squeak test during reeling -> handloom weaving
Traditional Applications
Prestige sari; ceremonial dress; festival textile
Contemporary Applications
Premium fashion fabric; export textile; cultural identity; GI product
Notable Practitioners
Rajshahi silk weaving cooperatives — Chapai Nawabganj; BSRTI-certified masters; approximately 20,000 workers in rajshahi silk industry
Key References
Bangladesh Silk Research and Training Institute publications; BSCIC documentation; Bangladesh Handloom Board records
Verification Status
Verified

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