Mongolia · Textile / Felting

Mongolian Felt Making (Esgii) — Full Traditional Process

эсгий (Esgii)

Mongolian esgii (эсгий) is the primary structural and insulating material of nomadic life — used for ger wall panels, floor coverings, sleeping mats, saddlery, and winter clothing. The CRAFT Mongolia record documents the sovereign Mongolian tradition distinct from CRAFT-0347 (Inner Mongolia, China) in its specific community context, transmission system, and the body-rolling density calibration technique that is the primary tacit knowledge: the correct felt density for ger wall panels is assessed by rolling the still-damp felt panel into a cylinder and standing on it — correct density: the cylinder holds its shape under body weight without collapsing; insufficient density: the cylinder flattens. This standing test encodes the structural requirement for ger wall insulation directly into the maker's body weight.

Risk level: Endangered · Component of UNESCO Mongolian Ger inscription (2013); esgii naadam (felt-making gathering) separately recognized

Alternate Names
Esgii; Mongolian felt; nomadic felt; gan zhan variant
Geographic Center
Steppe provinces throughout Mongolia — Arkhangai, Övörkhangai, Bayankhongor; Ulaanbaatar for commercial production
Community / Ethnic Group
Mongolian women's tradition — esgii making is traditionally women's knowledge across all Mongolian ethnic groups
Estimated Origin
Pre-historic nomadic felting tradition; continuous from ancient period; Mongolian Empire period (13th century) standardized ger felt panel specifications
Cultural Function
Ger wall panel insulation (primary function); floor covering; sleeping mat; saddlery lining; winter clothing lining; community social event (esgii naadam — felt-making gathering)
Primary Materials
Raw sheep wool (preferred: Mongolian sheep breeds — Mongolian fat-tailed sheep, Bayad, Darkhad); hot water for felting activation
Primary Tools
Reed mat (rolling base); rope for binding; bow-string carding tool; hot water supply
Process Overview
Wool spring-back assessment -> carding -> layer spreading on reed mat -> decorative appliqué inlay placement -> hot water application -> community rolling (full body weight) -> cylinder density test (standing) -> additional rolling if insufficient -> drying flat
Traditional Applications
Ger wall insulation; floor covering; sleeping mat; saddlery; winter clothing
Contemporary Applications
Contemporary felt art; eco-textile market; cultural tourism; interior design
Notable Practitioners
Mongolian women's felt-making communities throughout steppe provinces; esgii naadam community gatherings — Arkhangai, Övörkhangai; Mongolian National Handicrafts Association certified makers
Key References
Gillow, J. & Sentence, B. (1999). World Textiles. Thames & Hudson; UNESCO ICH nomination file — Mongolian Ger (2013); Mongolian Wool and Cashmere Council documentation
Verification Status
Verified

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