France · Silk preparation; Throwing craft; Lyon heritage

Lyon Silk Moulinage

Moulinage et Dévidage de Soie

The throwing (twisting) of raw silk filaments into usable yarn on the moulin (silk throwing mill) — the process that transforms reeled raw silk filament (grège) into the various yarn types used by Lyon weavers: organzine (Z-twisted warp yarn); trame (S-twisted weft yarn); crêpe (high-twist yarn for organza and crêpe fabric — CRAFT-0988 cross-reference). The moulinier reads the correct twist level by touching the finished yarn: too little twist and the yarn is flat and weak; too much and it kinks spontaneously.

Risk level: Vulnerable · Not listed

Alternate Names
Moulinière; moulinagge de soie; throwing silk; soie moulinée; organzine preparation
Geographic Center
Lyon and Ardèche (historical silk-raising region); moulinières concentrated along the Rhône valley
Community / Ethnic Group
Lyonnais / Ardéchois
Estimated Origin
15th century (silk throwing documented in Lyon from establishment of the trade); peak 19th century for industrial moulinage in the Ardèche
Cultural Function
Moulinage is the invisible foundation of Lyon silk — every warp thread and weft thread has been through the moulin before it reaches the loom; without correct moulinage, even the finest Lyon weaver cannot produce quality fabric
Primary Materials
Raw silk grège (reeled from cocoon); water (historically — wet throwing for better twist adhesion)
Primary Tools
Moulin (silk throwing mill — multiple spindle system); bobbin; twist counter; spindle speed control
Process Overview
Raw silk grège loaded onto bobbins; moulin set to correct spindle speed for target twist level; moulinage runs; periodic release test performed; spindle speed adjusted for drift; yarn wound onto output bobbins; yarn graded by twist level for use type (organzine; trame; crêpe)
Traditional Applications
Preparation of all Lyon silk warp and weft yarn; crêpe yarn preparation for organza and crêpe fabric
Contemporary Applications
Ongoing silk yarn preparation for Lyon silk industry; artisan moulinage revival for French sericulture reconnection
Notable Practitioners
Moulinières of the Ardèche (historically); Lyon silk throwing mills; approximately 5–10 active French moulinières
Key References
Le Moulinage de la Soie (Centre International de la Soie); Association Soieries Vivantes; https://www.soieries-vivantes.com
Verification Status
Partially Verified

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