Italy · Corsetry / Lingerie Construction

Bolognese Body-Draped Corsetry and Lingerie Making

Corsetteria bolognese

Corsetry and lingerie built by draping fabric directly on the body to study how it moves and holds, rather than starting from a flat pattern, then structured and decorated with a cluster of hand and specialist-machine techniques. In Bologna the method is documented through the house La Perla, founded in 1954 by Ada Masotti, a corset-maker nicknamed 'golden scissors'; at the time elastic fibers were not readily available, so early pieces relied on tailoring skill rather than stretch fabric. The techniques are Cornely embroidery (continuous chain-stitch embroidery worked on a specialized hand-guided machine), soutache (fine braided cord couched onto fabric in decorative patterns), macramé knotwork, frastaglio (a traditional Florentine flat appliqué stitch), and hand-applied Leavers-style lace sourced from the Calais-Caudry region of France — the same cross-border lace trade that supplies France's own surviving corsetry workshop. Production is not wall-to-wall hand-sewn: Bologna workshops combine sewing machines and pressing equipment with this layer of hand and specialist-machine technique for structure and decoration, most visibly on signature pieces such as hand-dyed, individually placed feather trim. The house survived a severe financial crisis — acquired in 2018 by Tennor Holding BV under German businessman Lars Windhorst, La Perla declined into insolvency, with its UK entity placed into judicial liquidation in 2025 over unpaid tax debts and its historic Bologna factory workforce facing closure — before being acquired by Peter Kern, former Expedia vice-chairman and CEO, through his Luxury Holding company; workers returned to the Bologna factory in December 2025.

Risk level: Critically Endangered · Not inscribed

Alternate Names
Bolognese corsetry
Geographic Center
Bologna, Emilia-Romagna
Community / Ethnic Group
La Perla's Bologna workshop workforce; craft lineage traced to founder Ada Masotti
Estimated Origin
1954, Bologna — founded by Ada Masotti, drawing on pre-existing Bolognese corset-making skill
Cultural Function
Luxury lingerie and corsetry manufacture; the brand became a reference point for Italian craftsmanship in intimate apparel internationally
Primary Materials
Fine fabrics (silk, tulle); Leavers-style lace sourced from the Calais-Caudry region of France; braided cord (soutache); embroidery threads; decorative trims including feathers on signature pieces
Primary Tools
Cornely embroidery machine (specialized hand-guided chain-stitch machine); standard industrial sewing machines; pressing equipment; hand-sewing needles for lace application, soutache couching, and frastaglio appliqué
Process Overview
Design via body-draping → pattern development → base garment construction (machine-sewn) → lace application and hand-finishing → decorative technique application (Cornely embroidery, soutache, macramé, or frastaglio as specified by design) → quality finishing
Traditional Applications
Luxury corsetry and lingerie for the Italian and international market
Contemporary Applications
Continued luxury lingerie production under new ownership following the 2025 rescue; signature pieces such as elaborately feathered and embroidered bras
Notable Practitioners
Ada Masotti (1954, founder) — corset-maker nicknamed 'golden scissors,' originator of the house's body-draping design method and its signature technique cluster. Current individual practitioner names at the Bologna workshop post-2025 ownership change were not independently verified in available sources.
Key References
Wikipedia, 'La Perla (clothing)'; fibre2fashion, 'La Perla Artisanship' brand-story profile; Business of Fashion and WWD coverage of the 2025 insolvency, UK judicial liquidation, and Luxury Holding/Peter Kern acquisition; Luxus Plus, 'La Perla saved, reinstates all its workers'
Verification Status
Desk-Researched

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