India · Textiles

Angami Lohe Shawl Weaving

Lohe (Angami Naga term)

The Lohe is the prestige warrior's shawl of the Angami Naga people of the Kohima district in Nagaland, and the most iconic textile in Naga culture — its central black body flanked by broad red borders, with a central embroidered panel of stylized cowrie shells, chest ornament motifs, and geometric forms in white, is the visual signature of Angami identity worldwide. The Lohe is an earned garment: traditionally, only a man who had performed the prescribed feats — including in the headhunting era, taking a head — was entitled to wear it. Today the entitlement system persists in modified form: a man must be ceremonially recognized by the village khel (council) to wear the full warrior Lohe. It is woven exclusively by Angami women on a body-tension loin-loom using a pick-up stick patterning technique. The embroidered panel (the Naga Terhuno) is worked separately and attached. No two Lohe are identical — each woman's execution of the standard motifs carries her personal signature.

Risk level: Endangered · Not inscribed; recognized under Indian National ICH list

Alternate Names
Angami shawl; Angami warrior shawl
Geographic Center
Kohima district, Nagaland; specifically Kohima village and surrounding Angami villages (Khonoma, Jotsoma, Viswema)
Community / Ethnic Group
Angami Naga people; weaving exclusively by Angami women
Estimated Origin
Pre-historic; oral tradition attributes pattern origins to Angami founding period; no written documentation before colonial era
Cultural Function
Primary social marker of Angami male achievement and status — worn at all ceremonial occasions. Village council recognition of wearer's entitlement is required. Funeral wrapping for honored dead. Gift of highest honor — presenting a Lohe to a dignitary is the supreme Angami gesture of respect. Sekrenyi festival (Angami purification ceremony) — Lohe is mandatory dress for male participants.
Primary Materials
Cotton yarn (mill-spun, now dominant); originally hand-spun local cotton; wool (some highland variants)
Primary Tools
Body-tension loin-loom (Angami type); pick-up sticks for pattern; shuttle; sword beater
Process Overview
Yarn preparation → dyeing → warping → loin-loom dressing → ground weaving → pattern pick-up → Terhuno embroidery → assembly
Traditional Applications
Warrior status shawl; ceremonial dress; funeral garment; diplomatic gift; Sekrenyi festival dress
Contemporary Applications
Cultural identity garment; collector's textile; Hornbill Festival dress; diaspora identity
Notable Practitioners
Vimala Vero (Kohima — National Award; recognized pattern master); Kevi Süo (Khonoma village — loin-loom master, traditional technique); NHHDC Kohima maintains registry of Angami master weavers.
Key References
Lotha, A. (2012). Chronicles of a Conquest. Brishti. Thomas, K. (2006). 'Cloth, Identity and Power in Nagaland.' Textile 4(2): 156–177. Nagaland State Museum Catalogue of Tribal Textiles (2015). Fürer-Haimendorf, C. von (1939). The Naked Nagas. Thacker, Spink & Co.
Verification Status
Desk-Researched — field verification at Kohima and Khonoma essential

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