Indonesia · Textiles

Sasak Songket Weaving

Tenun Songket Sasak

Sasak Songket is the supplementary weft gold and silk thread weaving tradition of the Sasak people of Lombok — producing lustrous cloth with raised gold or silver thread patterns on a silk or cotton ground. The Sasak tradition is distinct from Balinese or Javanese weaving — it reflects Lombok's own cultural identity as a predominantly Muslim island with Balinese Hindu minority influence. The primary production centers are Sukarara, Pringgasela, and Sade villages. Each village has its own pattern vocabulary — Sukarara is known for dense gold supplementary weft; Pringgasela for silk ikat-influenced patterns; Sade for traditional Sasak geometric forms. Weaving is exclusively female in Sasak culture — a woman who cannot weave is considered unmarriageable in traditional society.

Risk level: Endangered · Not inscribed

Alternate Names
Lombok songket; Sasak weaving; Sukarara weaving
Geographic Center
Sukarara village, Central Lombok; Pringgasela, East Lombok; Sade village, Central Lombok
Community / Ethnic Group
Sasak people of Lombok; weaving exclusively by women
Estimated Origin
Estimated 300–500 years in current form; older weaving tradition antecedent
Cultural Function
Bridal textile — specific songket designs are prescribed for Sasak weddings. Ceremonial dress for sunatan (circumcision) and other rites. Social identity marker — a woman's weaving skill defines her social status.
Primary Materials
Silk (for premium pieces); cotton (for daily cloth); gold and silver metallic thread (benang emas) for supplementary weft
Primary Tools
ATBM fly-shuttle loom or traditional body-tension loin-loom (varies by village); supplementary weft sticks; shuttle
Process Overview
Yarn preparation → dyeing → warping → weaving (ground + gold supplementary weft) → finishing
Traditional Applications
Bridal and ceremonial cloth; sunatan dress; daily formal dress for Sasak women
Contemporary Applications
Tourism market (primary); fashion; export; cultural tourism
Notable Practitioners
Sukarara Cooperative (collective — 200+ weavers); Pringgasela weaver community; Lombok government handloom registry
Key References
Warming, W. & Gaworski, M. (1981). The World of Indonesian Textiles. Kodansha. NTB Provincial Government craft documentation. Kartiwa, S. (1993). Tenun Ikat. Djambatan.
Verification Status
Desk-Researched — field verification at Sukarara and Pringgasela recommended

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