Malaysia · Metallic Gauze Embroidery

Sarawak Keringkam Embroidery

Sulaman Keringkam

Sulaman Keringkam is a Sarawak Malay embroidery tradition working fine gold or silver metallic thread onto rubia gauze fabric, built on a thread-count technique (kiraan urat benang), a piercing stitch (tikam tembus), and joneh lace embroidery (sulaman renda joneh). Finished selayah and keringkam shawls carry signature motifs of roses and bunga tanjung (Spanish cherry) in one named master's work, and budding rose, tampuk pedada, scalloped lace edges, and leaf motifs in another's. The craft's earliest documented national recognition dates to 1987, the founding year of Malaysia's Adiguru Kraf master-craftsman program itself.

Risk level: Endangered · Not inscribed

Alternate Names
Kelingkam embroidery
Geographic Center
Kuching, Sarawak (Kampung Tanjung)
Community / Ethnic Group
Sarawak Malay
Estimated Origin
Traditional Sarawak Malay embroidery technique historically associated with metallic-thread gauze work in the Malay world; contemporary named-master transmission documented from at least the mid-20th century, with national recognition dating to 1987
Cultural Function
Ceremonial shawls (selayah and keringkam) worn as formal Sarawak Malay dress
Primary Materials
Rubia gauze fabric; thin gold-plated metal thread (or fine gold/silver metallic thread)
Primary Tools
Embroidery needles for the piercing stitch (tikam tembus) technique; specific toolkit not independently verified
Process Overview
Rubia gauze fabric preparation → thread-count planning (kiraan urat benang) for motif placement → piercing-stitch (tikam tembus) embroidery of gold or silver metallic thread → joneh lace embroidery detailing → finished selayah or keringkam shawl
Traditional Applications
Ceremonial shawls (selayah, keringkam) worn as formal Sarawak Malay dress
Contemporary Applications
Not independently verified beyond continued ceremonial shawl production
Notable Practitioners
Salbiah binti Muhi, born 18 November 1951, Kuching, Sarawak — appointed Adiguru Kraf (national Master Craftsman) for Sulaman Keringkam in 2022; learned the craft from her mother and grandmother from age 17, expert in thread-count technique, piercing stitch, and joneh lace embroidery, with signature rose and bunga tanjung motifs. Allahyarhamah Pojiah binti Jaya, from Kampung Tanjung — appointed Adiguru Kraf for Sulaman Keringkam in 1987, one of the earliest cohorts of the program; learned the craft from age 17, with a documented keringkam shawl worked from rubia gauze and thin gold-plated metal in budding-rose, tampuk pedada, scalloped-lace, and leaf motifs.
Key References
Kraftangan Malaysia, Adiguru Kraf exhibition plaques for Salbiah binti Muhi and Allahyarhamah Pojiah binti Jaya (Sulaman Keringkam), photographed at a Malaysian craft fair/museum, September 2026; mycraftmuseum.com, portfolio entries
Verification Status
Desk-Researched

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