Nepal · Fiber / Spinning / Weaving

Pashmina Production (Changra Goat Fiber)

पश्मिना (Pashmina)

Pashmina uses the undercoat fiber (pashm) of the Changra goat from high-altitude pastures of Mustang, Humla, and Dolpo (12-16 microns diameter). The defining technique is wet-finger drafting on a takli drop spindle: fiber drafted over the spinner's saliva-moistened finger — not water (dries too fast) — providing just enough surface tension to control twist without breaking. 'The fiber should feel like it doesn't want to leave your finger.' Spinning done in still-air conditions only — any breeze breaks the yarn. Complete shawl weighs 100-150g and passes through a finger ring.

Risk level: Endangered · Nepal national ICH list; GI (Geographical Indication) protection

Alternate Names
Pashmina; cashmere Nepal; changra fiber
Geographic Center
Kathmandu (production); Mustang, Humla, Dolpo (fiber source)
Community / Ethnic Group
Newar community (production); highland Bhotia (fiber herding)
Estimated Origin
Changra goat husbandry from 14th century; Kathmandu as pashmina center from 18th century
Cultural Function
Luxury shawl for court and elite; diplomatic gift; contemporary international luxury market
Primary Materials
Changra goat pashm fiber (12-16 microns; hand-combed March-May); saliva for wet-finger drafting
Primary Tools
Takli drop spindle (light, small); saliva-moistened finger; handloom
Process Overview
Pashm combing -> sorting -> dehairing -> wet-finger takli spinning in still air -> yarn winding -> handloom weaving
Traditional Applications
Luxury shawl and clothing for court; cold-weather highland garment
Contemporary Applications
International luxury fashion; diplomatic gift; high-end textile
Notable Practitioners
Pashmina hand-spinning community, Kathmandu; approximately 50 active hand-spinners; Mustang Changra herding communities
Key References
Good, I. (1999). The Ecology of Exchange: Pashmina Goats in Nepal. PhD thesis; Pashmina Association documentation
Verification Status
Verified

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