Japan · Textile Arts / Weaving

Nanbu Sakiori Ground-Loom Rag Weaving

南部裂織 (Nanbu sakiori); saki = tear, ori = weave; loom term jibata (地機, ground loom)

Weaving from the Nanbu (southeastern Aomori) region in which worn cotton clothing and cloth is torn into thin strips and used as the weft, with cotton (formerly hemp) warps, on a ground loom whose tension the weaver holds with the body. It grew from the scarcity of cotton in a cold climate and produced durable, warm kotatsu covers, obi, work clothes and aprons whose colors are unpredictable until woven. Nanbu sakiori became a prefecturally designated traditional craft in March 1996 and is now kept alive by preservation societies and workshops in Hachinohe, Towada and other Nanbu towns. The general technique is described in CRAFT-2955 (Sakiori Rag-Weft Weaving).

Risk level: Vulnerable (kept alive mainly by preservation societies and hobbyist weavers; hemp weaving ended with the 1948 Cannabis Control Law) · Not inscribed

Alternate Names
Nambu sakiori; Nanbu saki-ori; Hachinohe sakiori
Geographic Center
Hachinohe, Towada and other Nanbu towns (Gonohe, Shichinohe, Mutsu), southeastern Aomori Prefecture, Tohoku
Community / Ethnic Group
Nanbu farm women and today's weavers' societies
Estimated Origin
Aomori Prefecture and the Nanbu Sakiori Preservation Society place its origin in the Edo period. The Society notes that the Pacific-side Nanbu region received far less secondhand cotton than the Sea of Japan coast and that large-scale use began after the railway opened in Meiji 26 (1893), with the craft thriving from the late Meiji period. A Skidmore thesis on Japanese folk textiles places cotton's arrival in the north in the mid-19th century.
Cultural Function
Thrift and reuse of precious cotton; warmth in a snowy region; obi were a source of cash income for farm women in the off-season; the red border (fukurin) of kotatsu covers was believed to ward off fire and brighten dark rooms
Primary Materials
Worn cotton kimono and cloth torn into strips for weft; cotton warp thread (originally hemp)
Primary Tools
Ground loom (jibata); shuttle; reed; thread heddle; waist support
Process Overview
Tear strips for the weft → warp the loom → thread the reed → wind the warp onto the warp beam → cross the warp (ayagoshi) → make the thread heddle → set up the loom → weave (per the Aomori Prefecture and JTCO descriptions)
Traditional Applications
Kotatsu covers, obi, work clothes, aprons, bedclothes, rugs
Contemporary Applications
Table cloths and table runners, handbags, pouches, slippers, vase mats, tapestries, bedspreads
Notable Practitioners
Sugano Eiko (founder of the Nanbu Sakiori Preservation Society, Towada, inspired by a single heirloom obi; deceased); Inoue Sumiko (Aomori Prefecture traditional craftsperson, certified 2002; teaching license 1983; workshop 'Cho' at Hacchi, Hachinohe, since 2011); Kobayashi Teruko (Towada, successor weaver featured by Nihonmono in 2026)
Key References
Aomori Prefecture, 'Nambu Sakiori' (traditional crafts), https://www.pref.aomori.lg.jp/soshiki/sangyo/chikikigyo/aomori_dento-kogei_nanbusakiori.html ; Nanbu Sakiori Preservation Society, 'History of Nanbu Sakiori', https://sakiori.jp/history/ ; JTCO, 'Nanbu Sakiori', https://www.jtco.or.jp/japanese-crafts/?act=detail&c=16&id=177 ; Visit Hachinohe, 'Nanbu Sakiori', https://visithachinohe.com/en/experiences/nanbusakiori ; Tohoku Standard, 'Nanbu Sakiori', http://tohoku-standard.jp/en/standard/aomori/sakiori ; Hachinohe City, 'Mottainai: Nanbu Sakiori', https://hachinohe-toshiken-iju.com/news/nanbusakiori/ ; Nihonmono, 'Teruko Kobayashi', https://nihonmono.jp/en/article/54235 ; Aomori Prefecture, "Aomori's Traditional Handicrafts", Google Arts & Culture (partner stories), https://artsandculture.google.com/
Verification Status
Desk-Researched

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