Myanmar · Textile / Beadwork / Ornament

Naga Ornament and Textile Tradition

နာဂ ထည် (Naga Hte)

The Naga people of the Sagaing Region (western Myanmar) and Nagaland (India) maintain one of the most visually dramatic ornament and textile traditions in Southeast Asia — historically associated with headhunting ceremony and now maintained as ethnic identity craft. The Naga textile tradition uses a back-strap loom to produce the distinctive shawl (rongsu) with large geometric block patterns in red and black on white cotton — each pattern type indicating the wearer's status (warrior, elder, headman) within the sub-group. The ornament tradition encompasses elaborate beadwork chest ornaments (deo mani — yellow bead necklace reserved for those who have taken a head in historical context), cane headgear decorated with boar tusks and hornbill feathers, and brass arm rings (thevo). CRAFT documents the textile and beadwork making knowledge while noting the historical headhunting context is no longer active.

Risk level: Critically Endangered · Myanmar national ICH list; cross-border recognition with India (Nagaland)

Alternate Names
Naga beadwork; Naga ornament; Naga headhunter textile; Myanmar-India border Naga
Geographic Center
Sagaing Region (Naga Self-Administered Zone); border with Nagaland, India
Community / Ethnic Group
Naga people (နာဂ Naga) — multiple sub-groups (Tangsa, Sumjenbung, Ponyo, Makury, Lainong, others)
Estimated Origin
Pre-colonial; current ornament and textile forms stable from 19th century documentation
Cultural Function
Status display textile (shawl patterns encode warrior, elder, headman status); ethnic identity ornament; ceremony and festival dress; cross-border Naga identity with Nagaland, India
Primary Materials
Cotton for shawl (white, red, black); yellow beads (deo mani) for status necklace; cane for headgear; boar tusks; hornbill feathers (now regulated — synthetic substitutes used)
Primary Tools
Back-strap loom for textile; needle for bead stringing; cane bending tools for headgear
Process Overview
Status determination for weaver → shawl block pattern planning → textile weaving with block pattern → deo mani bead stringing in status sequence → headgear assembly with cane bending
Traditional Applications
Status display at ceremony; ethnic identity display; community social encoding
Contemporary Applications
Cultural heritage preservation; museum ethnographic collection; cross-border Naga identity documentation
Notable Practitioners
Naga community artisans, Sagaing Region; cross-border Naga artisans, Nagaland, India; community tradition
Key References
Fürer-Haimendorf, C. von (1939). The Naked Nagas. Methuen; Lewis, P. & E. (1984). Peoples of the Golden Triangle. Thames and Hudson; Myanmar Craft and Art Association records
Verification Status
Verified

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