Mexico · Metalwork / Goldsmithing / Lost-Wax Casting

Mexica Lost-Wax Gold Labret Casting

Tentetl (Nahuatl; labret / lip ornament)

Mexica goldsmiths created elite labrets (tentetl) worn through a piercing beneath the lower lip, including sculptural eagle and serpent forms associated with political authority, military achievement and the ruler's power of speech. A surviving serpent labret in The Metropolitan Museum of Art demonstrates highly sophisticated lost-wax casting: the gold-copper-silver alloy body was cast from a wax model, with false-filigree details and an articulated bifurcated tongue engineered as an integral movable element. Archaeological finds from the Templo Mayor also document cast gold ornaments and hammered sheet-gold components, confirming an important goldworking tradition in the Basin of Mexico. Most elite gold objects were melted after the Spanish conquest, making surviving labrets exceptionally rare.

Risk level: Extinct · Not applicable as a living ICH element; archaeological heritage protected under Mexican law

Alternate Names
Aztec gold labret casting; Mexica tentetl; gold lip-plug casting; serpent labret casting
Geographic Center
Basin of Mexico, especially Tenochtitlan (present-day Mexico City); related goldworking networks extended into Oaxaca and other Mesoamerican regions
Community / Ethnic Group
Mexica (Aztec) specialist goldsmiths serving rulers, nobles and elite warriors
Estimated Origin
Mexica imperial period, especially 14th–early 16th century; metalworking reached central Mexico before the end of the first millennium CE
Cultural Function
Royal and noble lip ornament; symbol of political authority, eloquent speech and military status; ceremonial/battle regalia
Primary Materials
Gold alloyed with copper and silver; surviving serpent labret analyzed at approximately 59.3–64.3% gold, 26.8–33.1% copper and 7.5–8.8% silver
Primary Tools
Wax-modeling tools; crucible and high-temperature furnace/forge; casting mold; finishing and polishing tools
Process Overview
Model labret in wax → add false-filigree/sculptural details and articulated design logic → invest wax model → remove/burn out wax → melt gold alloy → pour into mold → cool and remove mold → clean/chase/polish → fit or free articulated element
Traditional Applications
Gold labrets worn beneath the lower lip by rulers, nobles and high-ranking warriors
Contemporary Applications
Museum conservation, experimental archaeology, metal-casting research and responsible design study
Notable Practitioners
Individual Mexica goldsmiths are not named in surviving documentation
Key References
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 'Serpent labret with articulated tongue' (2016.64); The Met, 'Labret with eagle head' (1978.412.218); The Met, 'Gold in the Ancient Americas'; López Luján, L. & Ruvalcaba Sil, J.L., research on Aztec goldworking and Templo Mayor; Bernardino de Sahagún, Florentine Codex, early colonial descriptions of goldsmithing
Verification Status
Verified — material/casting evidence; original transmission context extinct

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