France · Textile printing; Silk craft; Lyon heritage

Lyon Silk Screen Printing

Impression sur Soie de Lyon

The flat-table screen printing of silk fabric in Lyon — a tradition that developed alongside weaving as an alternative and complementary method of decorating silk. Lyon silk screen printing is distinguished by its color precision (haute couture requires exact repeat and exact color across a full season's production), its management of the silk fabric tension during printing (silk is notoriously unstable under printing paste pressure), and the squeegee pressure calibration that determines whether the paste penetrates the silk cleanly.

Risk level: Vulnerable · Not listed

Alternate Names
Sérigraphie sur soie; impression à plat; impression rotative sur soie; table printing
Geographic Center
Lyon and surrounding area; also Tarare (Rhône) for volume production
Community / Ethnic Group
Lyonnais
Estimated Origin
1930s (flat-table screen printing on silk developed; rotary screen printing from 1960s); Lyon silk printing tradition built on earlier block printing
Cultural Function
Lyon silk screen printing supplies the printed silk for Hermès scarves; Chanel printed silk; and the major haute couture print collections — the printed silk industry is the bridge between Lyon silk weaving and Paris fashion design
Primary Materials
Silk twill or crêpe fabric (for printing); printing paste (pigment or reactive dye in thickener)
Primary Tools
Flat printing table (gum-coated); silk screen; squeegee; registration pins; printing paste
Process Overview
Silk fabric gummed to table; first color screen positioned and pinned; paste loaded; first stroke resistance calibration; full screen pull; screen lifted; next position registered; continued across full fabric length; dried; second color registered and printed; steam fixed; washed; dried; inspected
Traditional Applications
Hermès silk scarf printing (primary prestige application); haute couture fabric printing; fashion accessory silk
Contemporary Applications
Luxury fashion (Hermès; Chanel; Dior scarves and silk fabric); luxury packaging; interior design silk
Notable Practitioners
Atelier Hermès Silk (Lyon); Ateliers Jean Vier; approximately 20–30 active Lyon silk print ateliers
Key References
L'Impression sur Soie (UNITEX); Centre International de la Soie; https://www.soierie-lyon.com
Verification Status
Verified

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