India · Textile Printing / Surface Embellishment

Khari Gold and Silver Dust Hand Printing (Jaipur and Ahmedabad)

Khari chhapai; chamki; tinsel printing

A surface printing technique in which a thick roghan paste, cooked from castor oil, is pressed through a perforated brass case (sancha) by a close-fitting wooden plunger (hatha) to print motifs of fine dots and dashes on cloth. While the paste is still wet, gold, silver or mica powder is dusted over it, often from a muslin pouch, and the excess is brushed off and saved once dry. The raised, glittering print imitates the look of zardozi metal-thread embroidery and brocade at far lower cost, and is used on festive and wedding textiles. Real precious-metal dust has largely given way to mica (chamki) and other affordable powders. An older method painted or printed a gum paste and laid varak metal leaf on it; that leaf method is documented separately (CRAFT-2867).

Risk level: Vulnerable · Not inscribed

Alternate Names
Khari printing; khadi printing; gold and silver printing; tinsel printing; chamki work; mica printing
Geographic Center
Jaipur, Rajasthan (hereditary printing community); Ahmedabad, Gujarat (a family that moved from Jaipur in the 1960s)
Community / Ethnic Group
Hereditary Rangrez and other printing families in Jaipur; a Rangrez family in Ahmedabad. Community size is not documented.
Estimated Origin
Historically practiced in the royal capitals of Rajasthan for wedding and festive textiles; a precise date of origin is not documented in the sources reviewed.
Cultural Function
Ornamenting textiles for weddings and festivals; once also used for temple décor with real metal dust (handicrafts.nic.in).
Primary Materials
Roghan paste (castor oil boiled repeatedly to a thick mass, with turpentine and other additions); gold, silver, mica (abrakh/chamki) or other metallic powders; cotton or silk cloth.
Primary Tools
Sancha: a brass case, round, square or shaped, with the motif perforated into its base; hatha: a wooden plunger that fits inside the sancha; muslin pouch for dusting powder.
Process Overview
Prepare roghan paste → fill the brass sancha → press the hatha plunger to print the motif → dust gold, silver or mica powder over the wet paste → dry → brush off and save excess powder.
Traditional Applications
Wedding and festive saris, odhnis and dupattas; temple textiles.
Contemporary Applications
Festive garments, home textiles and printed paper; embellishment for brands working with Jaipur printers.
Notable Practitioners
The family of Nathubhai Rangrez, which moved from Jaipur to Ahmedabad in the 1960s, reported in 2011 by the Craft Revival Trust as the only family continuing khari hand printing in Gujarat; individual Jaipur printers are not named in the sources reviewed.
Key References
Craft Revival Trust, Gold and Silver Dust Khari Handblock Printing, Jaipur and Ahmedabad (2011), Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/gold-and-silver-dust-khari-handblock-printing-jaipur-and-ahmedabad/6QG2ZMiYW-k4QQ ; Craft Revival Trust, Past-Continuous: Block Printing on Textiles in India: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/past-continuous-block-printing-on-textiles-in-india/wQGDHiAc ; Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Tinsel Printing: https://handicrafts.nic.in/crafts/All_Crafts/Craft_Categories/Textile/Hand_Block_Printing/Tinsel_Printing/TinselPrintingWebPage.html ; Anokhi, Craftsmanship (Gold & Silver Print): https://www.anokhi.com/craftmanship-anokhi/
Verification Status
Desk-Researched — needs practitioner verification

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