Réunion (France) · Textile / Basketry (embroidery)

Cilaos Drawn-Thread Jour Embroidery

Jours de Cilaos ('the days/openwork of Cilaos,' the technique's name); jours simples (the basic, beginner-accessible openwork level); jours vénitiens (a considerably more elaborate variant); point de reprise (the darning stitch used to re-embroider drawn threads); point de feston (the buttonhole stitch used to finish square edges)

The drawn-thread embroidery technique known as jours de Cilaos, practiced in the mountain village of Cilaos on the French overseas territory of Réunion, in which threads are deliberately pulled from white cotton or linen fabric to create small square voids, whose remaining crossed threads are then re-embroidered at the center using the point de reprise darning stitch, with square edges finished in point de feston buttonhole stitch, producing light-filled geometric or floral motifs -- flowers, butterflies, spirals -- inspired by nature. The technique was created by Angèle Mac-Auliffe, born 1877 in Hell-Bourg, daughter of Dr. Jean-Marie Mac-Auliffe, a former naval physician who became doctor at the Cilaos thermal baths; self-taught using pattern books from the 'Bibliothèque D.M.C.' that her father imported, Angèle moved to Cilaos in 1897 at age 20 and founded a small embroidery workshop in 1900, training local women in the technique until her death in 1908, after which nuns of the Cilaos convent continued the teaching. Traditionally worked entirely in white thread on white fabric -- with color introduced only from the 1980s onward -- the finished embroidery adorned trousseaux items: small baby garments, sheets, tablecloths, towels, and doilies marking major life occasions for generations of Cilaos families. By 1980, the tradition faced serious decline as trousseaux fell out of fashion; in response, local embroiderers united in 1983 to form a dedicated preservation association, and the Maison de la Broderie opened in 1984 as a living institution where visitors can observe embroiderers at work and purchase certified artisanal creations. The most elaborate pieces, such as a full tablecloth, can require up to fourteen months of continuous work. On 17 December 2025, jours de Cilaos was formally inscribed on France's Inventaire national du patrimoine culturel immatériel (National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage), with the official certificate presented to the commune of Cilaos on 3 June 2026 in the presence of the President of the Région Réunion and numerous embroiderers; Cilaos today counts seven Meilleures Ouvrières de France (France's official master-craftsperson distinction) in embroidery, a remarkable concentration for so small a community.

Risk level: Endangered · Not independently UNESCO-inscribed; formally inscribed on France's own national-level Inventaire national du patrimoine culturel immatériel (National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage) on 17 December 2025, with an official certificate presented to the commune of Cilaos on 3 June 2026 by the Ministère de la Culture

Alternate Names
Broderie de Cilaos
Geographic Center
Cilaos, a mountain village within the Cirque de Cilaos, Réunion
Community / Ethnic Group
Réunionnais women of Cilaos
Estimated Origin
Created around 1900 by Angèle Mac-Auliffe (born 1877, Hell-Bourg), who moved to Cilaos in 1897 and founded a teaching workshop in 1900, self-taught from imported French pattern-book publications (the 'Bibliothèque D.M.C.')
Cultural Function
Historically embedded in the rhythm of daily life and family celebration, embroidered items -- baby garments, sheets, tablecloths, towels, doilies -- formed the traditional trousseau marking major family occasions; each stitch and motif is directly described as telling a story, bearing witness to the talent and creativity of Cilaos women; today the craft functions as one of the strongest markers of Cilaosien and Réunionnais cultural identity, formally recognized as such through France's 2025 national heritage inscription
Primary Materials
White cotton or linen fabric; white cotton thread (traditionally; color introduced from the 1980s)
Primary Tools
A tambour (two concentric flexible wooden rings, adjusted to grip and tension the fabric); a needle; a thimble
Process Overview
Measure and mark white cotton or linen fabric, then carefully draw threads from the fabric to create precisely delimited square voids; launch crossed threads at the center of each void as a foundation grid, and re-embroider them using the point de reprise darning stitch, working from center outward, finishing square edges with the point de feston buttonhole stitch, and composing nature-inspired motifs -- flowers, butterflies, spirals -- within the resulting light-filled openwork; jours de Cilaos, a drawn-thread embroidery technique created around 1900 by Angèle Mac-Auliffe in the mountain village of Cilaos, Réunion, traditionally worked in white-on-white for trousseau items marking family life occasions, saved from near-extinction by a 1983 embroiderers' association and the 1984 Maison de la Broderie, and formally inscribed on France's National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage on 17 December 2025.
Traditional Applications
Trousseau items: baby garments, sheets, tablecloths, towels, and doilies marking major family life occasions
Contemporary Applications
Continued production and sale of certified artisanal pieces through the Maison de la Broderie; active formal instruction transmitting the technique to new generations; a nationally recognized symbol of Cilaos and Réunion cultural identity following the 2025 heritage inscription
Notable Practitioners
Angèle Mac-Auliffe (1877-1908), the technique's creator, self-taught from imported French pattern books, who founded the original teaching workshop in Cilaos in 1900; Mirella Delnard, service manager at the Maison de la Broderie, directly quoted describing the technique's process; Colette Turpin, a contemporary Cilaos embroiderer documented as having grown up immersed in the tradition; seven unnamed contemporary Cilaos embroiderers holding the Meilleur Ouvrier de France distinction
Key References
Wikipédia (French), 'Broderie de Cilaos' (detailed technique and historical documentation); Free Dom, 'Cilaos : la broderie entre officiellement dans le patrimoine culturel immatériel français' (2026, official national inscription documentation, naming Huguette Bello and Laïla Nassibou); France Info/La1ere, 'La broderie de Cilaos, une fierté pour La Réunion' (direct quotation from Mirella Delnard, naming the seven Meilleures Ouvrières de France); Bois Corail, 'La broderie de Cilaos' (naming Angèle Mac-Auliffe's precise birth year/location and Colette Turpin); Un Dimanche Après-Midi, 'Broderie de Cilaos: histoire, techniques et patrimoine' (detailed technique-level documentation, naming jours simples and jours vénitiens); Telemagplus, 'La broderie de Cilaos: De l'art au bout des doigts' (detailed material and tool documentation); Imazpress, 'Une histoire de broderie' (naming the D.M.C. pattern-book source); Valbrode33, 'Broderie de Cilaos' (naming point de reprise and point de feston stitches in detail)
Verification Status
Desk-Researched

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