Thailand · Textiles

Chok and Teen Jok Supplementary Weft Weaving

ผ้าโชค / ตีนจก (Phaa Chok / Teen Jok)

Geometric supplementary weft pattern weaving on cotton. Chok (Chaiyaphum, Northeast) creates all-over geometric patterns; Teen Jok (Lampang/Lamphun, North) creates intricate supplementary weft borders on cloth hems. An additional weft thread is manipulated by hand or stick to create raised pattern on plain base weave.

Risk level: Endangered · Not Listed

Alternate Names
Chok weaving; Teen Jok border weaving; supplementary weft cotton
Geographic Center
Chaiyaphum Province (Northeast); Lampang and Lamphun (North)
Community / Ethnic Group
Thai-Isan communities (Chok); Northern Thai and Tai Lue communities (Teen Jok)
Estimated Origin
Pre-Ayutthaya (est. 500-800 yrs); influenced by Tai Lue and Khmer weaving traditions
Cultural Function
Ceremonial dress border; merit-making dress; rites of passage; community identity garment; gift cloth for monks
Primary Materials
Handspun or machine-spun cotton (warp and ground weft); cotton or silk supplementary weft thread in contrasting colors
Primary Tools
Floor loom (treadle); supplementary weft stick or small bobbin; pattern sticks for lifting selected warp threads
Process Overview
Dress warp → plan pattern → weave ground → insert supplementary weft per pattern at designated rows → alternate ground and supplementary rows → complete cloth.
Traditional Applications
Ceremonial dress border; rites-of-passage dress; merit-making garments; gift cloth for monks
Contemporary Applications
Thai fashion collections; home textile market; SACIT export products; limited international sourcing
Notable Practitioners
Nittaya Chuchart (Chaiyaphum Chok master); multiple village masters at Ban Tha Sawang (Surin); Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts Centre masters
Key References
Conway, S. (1992). Thai Textiles. British Museum Press. — Thailand NOW (2026). Artisanal Landscape of Thailand. thailandnow.in.th
Verification Status
Unverified

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