India · Textiles

Ayurvastra Medicinal-Herb Dyeing

Ayurvastra (Sanskrit ayur, health, and vastra, cloth); the herbal dye extract is called kashayam

Dyeing handloom cloth with extracts of Ayurvedic medicinal plants, so that the dye bath is also, in the makers' account, a remedy. The fabric is first boiled to scour out impurities and bleached naturally in the sun on grass; the dye, called kashayam, is a decoction blended from plants, flowers, roots and barks, with natural mordants such as myrobalan (haritaki), lodhra bark, alum or iron; dyed cloth is then dried slowly, in one workshop for 15 days in a darkroom. Recipes can run to 35 herbs for a single garment and more than 85 ingredients for a yoga mat, with turmeric, tulsi, neem, vetiver, sandalwood and indigo among the common plants. The practice, long kept by an Ayurvedic family in Balaramapuram, near Thiruvananthapuram, was revived in the early 1990s by the village's handloom weavers in response to a crisis in Kerala's weaving industry, and developed with the state's Directorate of Handloom and the Government Ayurveda College. A 2006 trial reported faster recovery from skin conditions in a room furnished with herb-dyed textiles; producers themselves describe the cloth as a wellness product, not a cure.

Risk level: Vulnerable · Not inscribed

Alternate Names
Ayurvedic herbal dyeing; herbal-dyed handloom; Ayurtex (one producer's trade name)
Geographic Center
Balaramapuram, Thiruvananthapuram district, Kerala (dye house at Thumpode); some producers also in Tirupur, Tamil Nadu
Community / Ethnic Group
Balaramapuram handloom weavers, historically the Saliyar weaving families settled there from Tamil Nadu under the rulers of Travancore; Ayurvedic practitioners (naatu vaidyans)
Estimated Origin
Dyeing cloth with medicinal plants is described as an old Ayurvedic practice; in Balaramapuram it was kept in the Kuzhivila family of Ayurvedic practitioners and revived as a craft from the early 1990s (the Handloom Weavers Development Society was established in 1992). Handloom weaving was introduced to Balaramapuram under the Travancore rulers in the early 19th century.
Cultural Function
Joins Kerala's handloom tradition to Ayurveda; gives weavers a premium product at a time when handloom struggles against power-loom and synthetic cloth.
Primary Materials
Natural-fiber cloth, mainly organic cotton, also silk, wool, linen, jute, hemp and coir; medicinal plants (turmeric, tulsi or holy basil, neem, vetiver, sandalwood, indigo and many others)
Primary Tools
Handlooms; dye vats, including earthen vats; boiling vessels
Process Overview
Weave or source natural-fiber cloth → boil to scour → sun-bleach on grass → prepare kashayam from herbs with mordants → dye → dry slowly → finish into garments or cloth.
Traditional Applications
Cloth used in Ayurvedic treatment; handloom garments
Contemporary Applications
Garments, lingerie, yoga mats, bedding and dyed cloth for designers in Italy, Japan, Germany and Australia
Notable Practitioners
Handloom Weavers Development Society, Balaramapuram (founded 1992 by three brothers including Satheesh Kumar and Komalan), drawing on the Kuzhivila family's Ayurvedic dyeing knowledge. Kairali Exports, Balaramapuram (producing under the name Ayurtex, with its own herb farms and dye unit in Tirupur).
Key References
Akshaya Pillai, 'Feeling the Ayurvastra', Open magazine, 25 August 2016; Ayurvastra (Handloom Weavers Development Society), 'FAQ' and 'Process' (ayurvastra.in); Wikipedia, 'Balaramapuram handlooms'; summaries of the Ayurvastra project of the Directorate of Handloom and Government Ayurveda College, Kerala
Verification Status
Desk-Researched — Needs Practitioner Verification

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